Indian Bride - Beauty from Head to Toe
Her solha shringar or sixteen adornments complete, an Indian bride is a
vision of beauty. It is on her wedding day that all the skills and traditions of
the past are drawn out and concentrated on the bride-to-be.
A bride-any bride, anywhere in the world-is an epitome of beauty. In India a
young girl is not encouraged to ornament herself before her marriage. And after
marriage her lifestyle demands that she focus her interest increasingly on the
pragmatic rather than the aesthetic alone.
But her wedding day is the most momentous of all events. This one occasion makes
everything else in her life-before or after-pale in comparison. Dr. Mulk Raj
Anand and the late Krishna Nehru Hutheesing, in their, ‘The Book of Indian
Beauty’ write,… “Somewhere in the dark chambers in heard the wailing chant of a
young bride. She is beautiful or she is plain, but she has made the best of
those gifts that life has bestowed on her through shringar, the rules of which
have come down from generation of generation. She adorns herself because it is
part of a ritual that almost every woman practices. It is all very new to her
and, consequently, there is a certain self-consciousness in her attempt to adorn
herself, a self-consciousness accentuated by her desire to shine.” In is on her
wedding day that all the skills and traditions of the beauty rituals of the past
are drawn out and concentrated on the bride-to-be. The ritual, being draped in a
brocade sari.
Her limbs and face are creamed and scrubbed with a paste of oil, turmeric and
gram flour and washed with oils. Her henna tinged hands and feet and her skin,
says a poet, “is perfumed with the essence of flowers, till it is a mirror of
purity, worthy of adornment and respect.
Jewellery has a religious significance among Hindus. It is a common belief that
at least a speck of gold must be worn upon the person to ensure ceremonial
purity. Ornaments of gold, studded with precious stones are designed
specifically to fit and adorn a certain part of the body, the variety of each
one being rather bewildering. While in most cases the patterns passed from one
generation to another are almost unchanged, the craftsmen had no need to devise
new forms yet a deviation did creep in. Each century, each invader, each ruler
left indelible impressions.
The bride’s ‘Solah Shringar’ starts from the top. Her hair, after being washed
and oiled, a braided into a weave of plaits or tied back at the nape of her neck
in a bun with flowers and ornaments adorning it.
While in today’s cosmopolitan India, there has been a lot of sharing and
borrowing of customs and traditions, yet the true adherents of tradition follow
their individual rites.
While the Punjabi bride must wear a red parandi (a triple strand of red threads
which are plaited with the hair and end in very decorative tassels); the Bengali
and Maharashtrian brides will sport a bun decorated with white flowers. Further
south, in Tamil Nadu, white, orange and pink blossoms are woven around the
plait. In Kerala, the bride has a veil of jasmine buds-strands of flowers tied
to form a net. The forehead of each bride is marked with a red bindi-the mark of
the God and a sign of matrimony.
In addition, the bride’s forehead is embellished with the Suraj of sisphul-a
large circular half ball worn by the Rajputs. The mangapatti-a gold ornament is
worn along the hairline. Worn by both, the Maharashtrian bride and groom, is the
mandoria-strands of pearls tied horizontally across the forehead and on either
side of the face, vertical strands dangle to the chin.
The mang-tikki is worn by brides in most parts of the country, It is usually a
simple round disc, about an inch across, set with precious stones and is
attached to the parting of the hair by a chain. The nose ring, as it is called
in English, is only seldom in the shape of a ring. In most places it is usually
a small cluster or gems affixed by means of a screw to the nostril.
The biggest nose ring is worn by the Dogra brides. Almost three to four inches
in diameter it has rubies and pearls strung on it. The gold wire is in a loop
shape with encrustations of pearls, garnets and other beads for the
Maharashtrian bride and worn on the left side. The nose stud is worn by the
Gujaratis in the right nostril. In the south it is usually with a diamond
setting mainly five stones forming a triangle and worn on both sides. The
Bengali bride embellishes her face with dots and designs of chandan sandalwood
paste) which go across the forehead and come down to her cheekbones. The Rajput
bride might have three black dots on her chin to protect her from the Evil Eye.
For highlighting the eyes, Kajal made from the soot of diya (earthen lamp) lit
with a wick placed in clarified butter is used. The smoke emitted is collected
in an over-turned plate.
The ears are bedecked with the karn phul- a gold ornament with a star or
radiated center of about an inch in diameter sometimes richly ornamented by
precious stones and fixed to the lobe. Jhumka-a bell shaped ornament made of
solid gold usually with a row of tiny beads along its edge, is the favorite
among the Bengali, Punjabi, Maharashtrian and Rajput brides. A string a pearls
is attached to it and taken behind the earlobe to support the weight of the
heavy earring. The Tamilians give importance to the diamond-studded earring, a
central stone encircled by smaller ones. Among the Kashmiris a jeroo is an
essential part of the bride’s ensemble and duplicates as the mangalsutra. It
consists of a long gold chain worn through a hole pierced in the upper ear lobe
and having a dangling end of either gold or pearls.
The patan (literally meaning leaf) is used as a decorative from and worn in any
part of the ear except the lobe. The Bengalis also wear the kaan balas-two
half-moon shaped gold crescents dangling below the lobe.
The variety of necklaces is bewildering, and brides, especially the affluent,
are seen wearing a series of them of differing lengths. There is the collar of
gold beads called the paiti by the Maharashtrian, and the parunia ke gulsari-
string of pearls; the hansli a choker of gold pieces. The Punjabis have the rani
haar, handed down from mother-in-law to daughter-in-low and consists of pieces
of gold attached with a series of chains. The Maharashtrian also wear the
tanmani, three or four strings of pearls with a central pendant, or the typical
path where seven or eight strings of pearls are attached to a central green
bead. The Tamilians have their changali in gold but what is imperative is the
mangalsutra of two inverted ‘U’ shaped gold pieces called tail with four gold
beads strung on a yellow thread. Similarly the Maharashtrians have two cup-like
pieces in gold. Traditionally, they were strung on a yellow thread by a vaishya
(prostitute) as, never being married, she could not become a widow either, which
were the blessings to the passed to the bride. Among the Andhraites and
Keralites is the kashmira a long necklace made of gold sovereigns held together
by chains. Of course, floral garlands of mogras, rajnigandhas, roses, and
marigolds are also worn by the brides.
The bangle or bracelet is the most significant of ornaments for bangles are
above all, the visible sign of marriage. While young girls may wear bangles of
various kinds before their marriage, the first act of widowhood is to discard
them, (see article The Warm Ring of Bangles, Discover India April’91)
The north Indian brides have, among the Punjabis and Dogras, the chura made of a
set of white ivory bangles with red ones at either end. On a thin iron bangle in
the front are tied a bunch of kaliras-danglers of thin silver or gold. They are
ties by friends and relatives as a blessing to the bride. Also common is coconut
and some dried fruits and shells tied together by the red sacred thread. These
are usually given by the maternal uncles. Te significance of these dates back to
the olden times when the bride leaving for her husband’s home (a journey which
could take several days) could feed off the dried fruits in case she felt
hungry. The conch has tremendous religious importance among the Bengalis and it
is natural that bangles made from the shells are used for the bride. The white,
or sometimes red-colored shank has adorn her wrist. The Rajput bride wears the
ichura- a series of plain, ivory bangles starting from the smallest at the wrist
and progressively growing larger till the shoulders, covering the entire arm.
The ivory chudo is also worn by the Gujaratis and in addition are the green and
red glass bangles or bangri. Green glass is again the colour for the Andhra and
Maharashtrian brides. Of course gold bangles also add to the profusely adorned
wrists in all parts of India, either as the thin churi or its broader, flatter
version or the thick kara with either the elephant or lion heads.
Further up the arm is the bazubandh or armlet-a precious stone-adorned
semi-circular trinket with skeins at both ends to tie them in place with.
The palms are covered with an intricate design of mehandi and in the north
especially, the application of henna is a special ceremony. Traditionally, the
application of henna is a special ceremony. Traditionally, it was believed that
the stronger or darker the color of the mehandi design, the more the bride’s
mother-in-law would love her.
Rings, usually of gold, her worn more as a decorative item. There is also the
fashion of the arsi or thumb-ring with a mirrored front for the bride to look at
herself. In some cases, the mirror opens to reveal a small box in which perfume
can be kept. Another popular combination in the north is the haath phool. It
consists of five rings in all the fingers, joined to a bangle at the wrist with
chains from each ring radiating to a medallion encrusted with stones in the
center of the hand, with chains again joining the medallion to the bangle.
To keep the sari in place as well as accentuate the bride’s slim waist a belt of
gold or silver is used. While the Punjabis call it taragi the Tamilians used the
odianmam to hold their nine-yard sari in place.
The feet are also given as much importance as the rest of the body. The Bengalis
color theirs red with alta drawing a thick line along the outer border of the
foot and applying a dot above the arch. Anklets are either in the form of simple
chains of paizeb heavy thick rings of silver set with a fringe of small
spherical bells which tinkle at every movement of the limb. Appropriately, the
Gujaratis call them jhanjhar or payals. And finally, the toes are adorned with
the anwat a ring furnished with little bells. Or the bichua, rings worn around
the toes, and traditionally attached along each side of the foot, to the paizeb
at the ankle. Among the Maharashtrians it is an elaborate toe-ring with a
parrot, peacock or fish design. In Andhra, the popular design is the ambi of
paisley. It is put on to the bride’s toes during the ceremony with he groom
getting her to place her foot on the grinding stone. The Tamil bride may adorn
one or more of her toes with the matti or a simple multi-coiled silver ring,
which is presented by her material uncle, symbolizing eternity.
The richly woven gold and red brocade sari which is considered one of the most
graceful dresses in the world led poets to write, “it veils the body but does
not misrepresent it”. The wedding ensemble could be the green nine yard paithan
of the Maharashtrians, the maroon and gold-bordered koorap-podavi of the
Tamilians; the raunak gold and white one of the Sindhis and a similar one of the
Keralites or the white with red border sanetar of the Gujarati. Again, the rich,
Benarasi red and gold ones of the Bengalis and Punjabis or the kurti, Kanchli,
ghagra and odhni of the Rajput brides and the churidar-kamiz and odhni of the
Dogras. All these adornments symbolize the day, the most important one in the
life of a woman when she goes to her husband in shyness and modesty.
BEAUTY TIPS FOR THE INDIAN
Below are some of her favorites that we are sure will help you look even
more radiant on your big day.
Even though Indian Brides are known to wear very dramatic makeup, Less Is More
when it comes to makeup for your wedding day. Keep foundation light-weight and
powder silky to avoid your makeup coming across as very heavy.
Wear gloss, preferably a pink one, to brighten up and soften your look. Dark
burgundy and red lipsticks can tend to look harsh and age you in your pictures.
Avoid heavy and dark lipliners. Use a nude color to frame the lip and apply your
lipstick with a lip brush for defined, full lips.
Look for foundations, concealers and powders with either yellow or olive
undertones to avoid looking gray and washed out in your photos.
Brows are everything but don't try waxing or threading the day before your
wedding. You may react and it’s hard to conceal the irritation. Opt for getting
your treatments done one week prior to the big event.
Play with false eyelashes for extra drama. Instead of wearing really dark
eyeshadows, lighten up with golds and bronzes and add drama with full false
lashes!
You know how desi weddings go.....ALWAYS wear waterproof mascara
Beauty Make-up tips for an Indian bride
Every bride deserves to be the very special lady of the day and look her
best. The hairdo, the makeup, the bridal trousseau and how the bride conducts
herself is the focus of everybody's attention on this day and you will certainly
feel much more comfortable, if you have already done the dress rehearsal first.
Here are some useful tips for the bride:
* To cover the reddish skin, use sheer color corrector and apply tinted
moisturizer of yellowish green or olive green shade to neutralize it.
* Pink color blush is not for the wedding day, generally speaking. Try bronzer
under cheekbones instead.
* Bright lip colors may be warm such as orange-red, orange-gold, copper and warm
beiges, creams and caramels or cool such as fuchsia, magenta, blue-reds, shades
of lilac and pink and make lips look plusher and fuller.
* Deep warm lip colors such as yellowish and orangish browns; mahogany, deep
warm reds and chocolate and deep cool shades such as cool brown, taupe, deep
purple, plum and blue-toned burgundy underplay too much thickness of lips.
* The subtle look can be achieved by using the air-brush a lot and sticking to
light shades such as cream, gold, lime green and brown for warm skin undertones
and lilac, plums and soft pink for cool skin undertones.
* Neutrals are the safest choice to make you seem a bride endowed with natural
beauty.
* Be sure to coordinate you overall look: all the colors should have either warm
or cool tone while your hair, make-up, jewelry and gown should correspond to the
carefully chosen theme.
* Hairstyle is usually chosen, after completing the makeup to suit the looks of
the bride.
* If you are not used to wearing heavy makeup, keep your hands away from blue
and green eye shadows.
* For olive and dusky skinned ladies, maroons and brown lip colors are the
safest bet as well as the golden tones.
* Hairstyles are often adorned with pearls, rhinestones, flower buds, golden
lace, satin ribbons, jeweled hair bands and tiaras among other hair ornaments
and may range from the simplest French braid or bud to complex and elaborate
hairdos.
* Bridal makeup includes all the attention to the minutest of details. Don't
overlook them for the finished look.
* A timeless makeup look will keep your wedding snaps fresher forever, so try
not to give in to the fads of the day.
* Cream foundation with a high pigment level is recommended.
* Don't forget to cover your neck, chest, area behind your ears with foundation
and makeup too.
* Morning weddings need natural look makeup while evening weddings need more
formally adorned brides with darker makeup shades.
* Lighting also determines your makeup. A well-lit area uses lighter colors
while deeper tones are good for darker areas. Fluorescent lighting will add a
greenish tinge to everything so avoid green shades.
* Try not to be too dramatic but there is a secret seldom revealed: red lipstick
makes teeth appear whiter!
How to Apply Bridal Makeup - Indian Bridal Makeup Tips
In bridal makeup, bright and neon colors must be avoided... they simply
scream out of photos, but do not go to the opposite side. Every woman whether in
india or elsewhere, therefore, must have knowledge of bridal makeup and of
things required for indian bridal makeup, because beauty clinics are not
available in small towns or villages.The bright day of your wedding it is not
proper to use gray. All the effort put in to making your skin look radiant will
go to the trashcan because gray makes skin look ashy. The best bet for your
makeup in the big day is to choose a neutral or true color.
o keep your body skin soft and healthy, you need to give it attentive care.
If you have dry skin-or any skin type during winter time-practice the following
routine: Bathe only once a day and limit showers-and baths to five minutes. Use
lukewarm water and minimize the amount of soap you' apply. Olay Complete
Moisturizing Body Wash contains petroleum and is good for very dry skin.
Concentrate the lather under the arms and in the groin area. Don't forget to
wash the soles of your feet, between the toes, and your ears. If you have
sensitive skin, avoid cleansers with fragrances and skip the loofah or any other
abrasive sponge. Keep a pumice stone handy and use on the feet daily or weekly
depending on the condition of your- feet. When you come out of the bath or
shower, only pat your skin dry. Apply a moisturizer, such as Avon Moisture
Therapy Body Lotion, Eucerin Plus Lotion, or Arnlactin Lotion, to damp skin, to
trap moisture in the skin.
In summer time-or if you have oily to normal body skin-feel free to take
lengthier showers or increase the temperature. You can also shower or bathe two
times a day. Loofah sponges are acceptable for exfoliation, but be careful not
to make the skin raw or irritated. If you are a plus-size woman, don't forget to
lift your breasts and any abdominal folds and wash underneath. Also, lift each
arm to wash armpits and one leg to cleanse the groin area. Pat your entire body
dry with a towel and sprinkle the body folds with an absorbent powder like
Zeasorb AF, which has antifungal properties. If you have darkened areas on your
neck and under the arms (acanthosis nigricans), dark elbows or knees, or small
rough bumps on the arms and legs (keratosis pilaris), do not attempt to scrub
the problem away. You'll only irritate the skin. If, however, you notice peeling
skin on your towel, you may need to exfoliate manually (using a loofa) or
chemically (using exfoliating acids). The following cleansers for the body offer
a variety of options for- women in color: Olay or Dove Bar Soap, Avon's Bath
Gels, Olay Cleanser for Dry Skin, and Dove Cleanser.
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